`E-PUB ↶ Montagne di una vita ⇘ PDF eBook or Kindle ePUB free

I had to read this book both in English the first purchased and in Italian understand a very technical book about a subject I m not that familiar with was a bit too much Despite some mistranslations, the English edition was richer and provided context to the numerous feats accomplished by Bonatti, and also came with photos that were not included in my Italian version All and all, I m happy I was able to read them both. Well written and extremely thrilling accounts of a selection of climbs by Bonatti Since he made me feel as if I were on each mountain with him, there now will be no need for me to attempt those summits Bonatti is clearly one of the best mountain climbers who ever lived. To those having a bit of knowledge of alpininism, the name Walter Bonatti is met across many books that of a man having overcome some of the most difficult climbs in the Alps that of a man smeared by others after the K2 incident and that of his grandiose good bye to alpinism on the Cervino From hearing a few interviews of Bonatti, and reading this book, you understand how deeply spiritual though not believing in god A man Bonatti is how his alpinistic life and further adventures were lived out of a conjuction of ethics, search for the unknown and its limits And indeed, in this beatifully written book, it is the personnality of Bonatti that stands out that of a man of intimate convictions, probably feeling misundertood, and of a singular deep belief that finding his inner self his the most important thing and that compromising with it the most unacceptable.I could extract many quotations from the book this is a book where i felt to meet someone having the same thoughts in a much better way than me This being my translation from the italian Nothing of which I have done, obviously, is important, but it entirely belongs to me and identifies me.A nice epitaph not a few of us would like on our graves I would believe. First ascents of all the difficult Alpine peaks, first solo winter ascent of the Matterhorn, open bivouac on K2 at 8000 metres Bonatti climbed everything the hard way, looking for the simplest way of climbing and shunning new technology as reducing the aesthetic detracting from the achievement For me, the value of a climb is the sum of three inseparable elements, all equally important aesthetics, history, and ethics Together they form the whole basis of my concept of alpinism Some people see no in climbing mountains than an escape from the harsh realities of modern times This is not only uninformed but unfair I don t deny that there can be an element of escapism in mountaineering, but this should never overshadow its real essence, which is not escape but victory over your own human frailty. Me and alpinism are the perfect oxymoron And yet I like so much reading about these kind of books in which adventure perfectly suits with wild life and danger.Bonatti was the youngest alpinist of an Italian expedition which was the first in the world to reach the top of Hymalaian K2 in 1954 At that time the success of this expedition was followed a lot by the italian mass medias and public opinion which considered the K2 conquerors like national heroes Walter Bonatti never reached the top of K2 As a youngster, he was treated as a local sherpa carrier than as a member of the expedition by his famous companions, Lacedelli and Compagnoni.Suddenly they abandoned him at than 8000 metres without oxygen or explanations Bonatti survived, but his awful experience became like a black spot to clean up in the post K2 climbing tales Further Lacedelli and Compagnoni have always rejected Bonatti s accusations The Mountains of my life speaks about the controversial K2 episode, but has much to offer Reading at these pages you can feel the love, the symbiosis between Bonatti and some of the most known peaks in the world which have been all climbed by him, sometimes in unbelievable circumstances. Bonatti is truly one of the greatest mountaineers to ever touch a rock and he manages to demonstrate this completely through his writing without coming off as haughty or vain For example, his rope solo ascent of the Bonatti Pillar on the Dru is one of the most intense climbing passages I have ever read and is a testament to his technical expertise, boldness, brilliance on the rock, and determination This is true of all the essays, from those detailing his ascent of K2 and Gasherbrum IV and the farcical accusations he faced upon his descent from the former to his treks through Patagonia The base of the proximal phalanx of my second toe was fractured Fortunately, it turned out to be less serious than I had feared Once I got my swollen foot in my boot and laced it up tightly, it was possible for me to walk, and I did so for the next eighteen days His writing is straightforward and plain, but still conveys the splendor and thrill of the mountains The rising moon flooded the sky with astonishingly bright light that prevented the night from growing dark, but not the spread of its infinite calmI was drunk with solitutde and the sort of imaginings that at times lift us out of ourselves and place us where we would most wish to be Bonatti may come off as prickly to some given his staunchly traditional mountaineering ethics For example, he condemns even stoppers, not to mention camming units, for protection, claiming that they, murder the impossible He saw mountaineering as a way to come to know himself Climb symbolized a victory of man over his own limitations than a victory over a mountain face and was unwilling to undermine his standards for anyone I could not accept just anyone on the other end of my rope, nor could I translate into money a bond that made sense, for me, only in friendship with my ropemate I don t like to fall into the trap of nostalgia, but Bonatti is a perfect example of what we can all aspire to as climbers and adventurers. I think I would have liked to have met Walter Bonatti He seemed to be a very thoughtful person with a beautiful soul.If you ve read The Conquest of K2 which is the official account of the Italians being the first to summit K2, I highly recommend reading Walter s book where he tells the true story of the details behind his unprecedented bivouac at 8,100 meters with the Hunza Mahdi how Compagnoni and Lacedelli moved Camp 9 from the agreed upon location and didn t respond to the calls from Bonatti and Mahdi.The book is written chronologically and each chapter discusses a separate climb adventure I m used to mountaineering books which deal with one climb, so there are tons of details of every day, every step, every belay This was a pleasant change because he uses only a few pages to tell his account of his climbs, i.e., his historic winter ascent of the north face of Mont Blanc.Walter Bonatti is my new mountaineering hero. I am periodically hiking in different parts of world and although high mountains alpinism is a very long way away from my hiking experience, reading this book I was able frequently share the same feelings of awe before the beauty of our planet that only people going into mountains can appreciate. In a word Intense Bonatti was among the most talented alpinists of the 20th century He is perhaps most famous for surviving a night out in the open unscathed just below the peak of K2 during the first controversial ascent of that mountain Yet his accomplishments stretch far beyond that Bonatti was a pioneer of light and fast alpine style climbing, and did many of his most difficult climbs solo when such a thing was nearly unheard of Giving up climbing at the peak of his ability at age 35, he went on to achieve even greater popular recognition as a photographer The chapters of the book are each dedicated to different climbs Bonnati pushed himself considerably harder with each subsequent climb Some of his accomplishments, such as soloing the North Face of the Matterhorn during Winter seem almost inhuman Here he shares his apprehensions, the consuming fears and loneliness he experienced, but also his extraordinary love and relationship with the mountains Bonatti s account of the tragic disaster at the Central Pillar of Freney is among the most moving wilderness survival writing you may ever come across Originally a party a seven, Bonatti describes how caught in an unrelenting storm, his companions, dropped dead one by one from exhaustion and delirium In the end only he and two others survived Play the game for than you can afford to lose only then will you learn the game, is a macho quote often thrown around by mountaineers That price is laid out soberly and very clearly here For mountaineers there is much to learn and absorb here this is a book full of lessons and inspiration to come back and return to time and again For the less adventurous you cannot help but be inspired by Bonatti s adventures His absolute dedication, perseverance, deep humanity, love and genius for his chosen craft are qualities anyone should aspire to and admire. `E-PUB ☠ Montagne di una vita ☈ Published For The First Time In English, The Mountains Of My Life Collects The Classic Writings Of World Famous Mountaineer Walter Bonatti, And Tells The Real Story Of The Controversy Over The Events On K That Changed His LifeBonatti Is One Of The Greatest Mountaineers Of All Time, A Man Who Continually Reset The Benchmark Of Human Possibility By Ascending Routes That Others Dared Not Even Contemplate He Climbed With An Audacity And Panache That Epitomized The Purest Spirit Of Alpinism, And Inspired An Entire Generation Of Climbers Jon Krakauer Calls Him One Of My Heroes He Is Not Only A Mountaineer Of Astonishing Talent And Vision, But One Of The World S Most Engaging Writers About MountaineeringBonatti Has Also Been Dogged By Controversy And Often Been At Odds With The Climbing Community The Mountains Of My Life Not Only Collects The Best Of Bonatti S Writing Telling Of Adventures In The Alps, The Himalayas, And Little Known South American Peaks It Also Tells Bonatti S Version Of What Really Happened On The Italian Expedition That Made The First Ascent Of K In Bonatti S Selfless Actions Helped Avert Disaster, Yet In The Expedition S Aftermath He Found Himself Cast As A Scapegoat Part Detective Story, Part Hair Raising Adventure, Part Meditation On His Craft, The Mountains Of My Life Is As Awe Inspiring And Controversial As Its Author, And Is Beautifully Illustrated With Bonatti S Own Photos